Hyrcanian forests, enduring heritage

The Hyrcanian forests or forests of northern Iran are a green belt 850 km long, 20 to 70 km wide and an area of ​​1.8 million hectares, which starts from the southern shores of the Caspian Sea (Astara in Gilan) and covers the Glidaghi valley in Golestan province. The name of these forests is derived from the old name of Gorgan, which was called Hyrkan in the past.

Existence of huge Caspian Sea water accumulation in the north and Alborz mountain range, the highest mountain range in the Middle East, in the south, which stands like a wall against the moisture of the Caspian Sea and prevents its development to the central plateau of Iran, has caused heavy rainfall in this region. It has created dense Hyrcanian forests. Vertical expansion of Hyrcanian forests from -28 m on the shores of the Caspian Sea to the border of a tree at an altitude of 2500 to 2800 m above sea level and rainfall increases from east (500 mm) to west (2,000 mm). High altitude changes in a narrow width of 20 to 70 km from the coast to the tree border and precipitation changes from east to west, have led to diversity in ecological conditions and the consequent unparalleled diversity in plant and animal species.

The remaining Hyrcanian forests are deciduous deciduous forests from the Tertiary Tertiary, in which the evolutionary process continued naturally and continuously from 25 to 50 million years ago. The world is unique. Due to this long history of evolution, the biodiversity of these forests is unique and far higher than similar ecosystems on the World Heritage List.

The Hyrcanian forests are known as the mother of the young forests of Europe and North America because with the end of the ice age and the disappearance of the forests of Europe and North America due to extreme cold, the Hyrcanian forests survived despite the temperate climate of the Caspian Sea and the Alborz Mountains. Continued and after the end of the glacial period, plant species from these forests spread to Europe and North America; Many of the plant species found in these forests today are found in fossil form in Europe, which is why these forests are referred to as “living fossils” or “natural museums”.

One of the unique tree species and Hyrcanian fossils is the biblical species, which with its natural colors in autumn gives a special view to these unique forests. The only natural distribution area for such species is the southern shores of the Caspian Sea.

Although Hyrcanian forests cover a small percentage of Iran; But more than 3200 species of vascular plants have been reported in it, which constitute 44% of vascular plants in Iran. Also, 338 species (77%) out of 437 species of non-vascular plants in Iran have been identified in this area. In these forests, more than 280 plant species native to the Hyrkani region and about 500 native species of Iran have been reported. There are about 80 species of trees and 50 species of shrubs in these forests.

Today, important mammals in the Hyrcanian forests have taken refuge, including the Persian wild goat, wild cat, which are endangered on the IUCN list. It should be noted that the leopard species in the Hyrcanian forests is the largest subspecies of this genus and Iran has the largest population of this species in the world; Golestan Forest Park and the Central Alborz region are among the best habitats for this species.

So far, 58 species of mammals including 18 species of bats, more than 180 species of birds, 31 species of reptiles, 9 species of amphibians and more than 50 species of freshwater fish have been reported from the Hyrcanian region; Due to its small area compared to the country, it includes unparalleled biodiversity.

The registration of Hyrcanian forests in the UNESCO World Heritage List has been in the form of serial registration; In this way, 12 sites and 15 spots from east to west of these forests and from the coast to the heights were selected for inclusion in the World Natural Heritage List. Sites registered in the World Heritage List include Golestan Forest Park (1.2), Cloud Forest (3 and 4), Jahannama Protected Areas (5), Bola (6), Alimestan (7), Vaz (8 and 9), Kojoor (10), Chaharbagh (11) and the national natural monument of arid land (12) are the protected areas of Siahroud Rudbar (13), Gasht Rudkhan (14) and Lisar (15). Siahrood Rudbar, Gasht Rudkhan and Lisar protected areas with an area of ​​58,000 hectares are located in Gilan province.

Siahroud Rudbar

Siahrood Rudbar, with an area of ​​27094 hectares, is located in Gilan province, 30 km south of Rasht, and the natural-national monument of Dorfak cave covers the most important height of Gilan province along with a range of forest and mountain ecosystems. A large part of this area (site) has a slope of more than 40% and its height changes range from 129 to 2706 meters.

The climate of the region is very humid to humid with an average annual rainfall of 1267 mm. Appearance of a mountainous region with unique forest, rock, river and rangeland habitats and is one of the most important areas with high biodiversity in Gilan province. Hyrcanian tree species such as Eastern beech Fagus orientalis, nightshade, lilac, lilac, angelica, boxwood, alder along with Mediterranean species such as juniper and sage are among the important features of this region. Brown bears, wolves, leopards, wild boars, marals, shoka, jackals, foxes, rabbits, rabbits, goats, snakes, partridges, quails, wild eagles, vultures, hawks, cuckoos and pheasants are some of the animal species in the area. Around this area (site) in Darband Rashi Cave, one of the oldest dated human settlements in Iran has been identified, which indicates the long-term presence of humans in the Hyrcanian forests.

Patrol of the river

Patrol Rudkhan with an area of ​​26,556 hectares is located 15 km south of the city of Fooman and the historical site of Qaleh Rudkhan is located in the area (site). This mountainous area (site) is accompanied by forest habitats, rangelands, groves and wooded rangelands, a large part of which has a slope of more than 45%. The range of height changes of the area (site) is from 116 to 2839 meters. This region is one of the wettest areas of Hyrcanian forests with rainfall of more than 1500 mm per year, which covers all the slopes from the plains to the mountains and is one of the most important areas with high biodiversity in Gilan province.

High density of ferns, mosses and plants growing from the forest floor to the top of the canopy due to high humidity is one of the features of this area (site). Also, this site is the only site of Chestnut species (Castanea sativa) among the registered Hyrcanian sites. Brown bears, wolves, leopards, wild boar, maral, shoka, jackals, foxes, rabbits, rabbits, goats, snakes, partridges, quails, wild eagles, vultures, hawks, cuckoos and pheasants are some of the animal species in this area.

لیسار

Lisar is the northernmost site (site) of Hyrcanian forests, registered in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage List, with an area of ​​more than 4884 hectares in the political area of ​​Gilan province, 10 km north of Talesh city and due to valuable wildlife and unique landscapes and dense forests. Beech, angelica and oak are very important. This area is a forested mountainous area and most of the lands are mountains. The altitude changes of the region are between 600 and 1800 meters and it has a humid and very humid climate with an average rainfall of 1201 mm.

The vegetation in this area is very diverse due to the favorable climatic conditions and we see one of the most important beech and oak-eagle communities in the western Hyrcanian forests. Indicative mammal species in the region include maral, goat and paw, wild sheep, shoka, Persian leopard. In addition to mammals, the birds in the area are also important, including the partridge, the underwater eagle, the golden eagle, and hummus.

The history of human presence in the Hyrcanian region, based on the latest archaeological and geological excavations, dates back to the Paleolithic period. Tools belonging to this period, including some stone artifacts and animal remains such as bones and teeth, have been found in Darbandarshi cave near Siahrood Rudbar site in Gilan province. According to the latest research, this cave was the home of stone hunters more than 200,000 years ago. Darband Cave is the oldest historically inhabited human settlement in Iran. Before the arrival of the Aryans on the Iranian plateau, other ancient tribes were present on the southern shores of the Caspian Sea, including the Amards, the Gils, the Kadusians (in present-day Gilan), the Tapuris in the mountainous regions (present-day Mazandaran), and the Vercans (in present-day Golestan). Cited; Who were considered natives of this region. The advanced civilization of Marlik is one of the remains of ancient peoples living on the southern shore of the Caspian Sea in the province of Gilan.

Since the 1950s, the area of ​​Hyrcanian forests has decreased from about 2750,000 hectares to 185,000,000 hectares, due to various factors; The temperate climate and fertile soil have attracted many from other desert and arid regions of Iran to this region. In addition, during all the holidays, people from many different regions travel to this region, which has a negative impact on its nature (for example, waste production in this region increases up to three times during the holidays). The concentration of industry and urban planning in the lowlands and valleys has also led to an increase in population (the Statistics Center of Iran estimates the population of the three northern provinces at about 7 million, which is 8.7% of the population of Iran).

The northern forests are the only commercial forests in Iran and the accumulation of wood production, which has been very effective in destroying them. Livestock and overgrazing in forest areas, intentional fires, especially in forests of drier areas, are other causes of deforestation. The need for transportation lines to transport travelers and residents to the area has also led to the destruction of large areas of pristine and untouched forests, and the fragmentation of habitats over the years. Dam construction, villa construction, invasion of alien species, illegal harvesting of wood and medicinal plants, illegal hunting, waste, land use change, water pollution, pests and diseases are also among the threats of these unique forests.

Yet despite the many threats, on steep and inaccessible slopes and high altitudes, large sections of the Hyrcanian forests continue to evolve naturally, forcing us to work to preserve this valuable ancient treasure. Organizing livestock and ranchers, empowering villagers, not building in forest areas, educating and raising public awareness about the forest and its related values, organizing waste and recycling waste, sustainable tourism and training of tourist guides based on the principles of nature tourism strategies to deal with Most of these ancient forests are destroyed.

Hyrcanian forests were registered in the 43rd UNESCO World Heritage Site in Azerbaijan, Baku, on July 14, 2019, equal to July 10, 2019, as the second natural heritage of Iran, according to the standard, numbered 1584, in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Is.