“Mother of Iranian caravanserais” is injured

Dirgchin Caravanserai, known as the mother of Iranian caravanserais, has been introduced to UNESCO along with 55 other caravanserais for inclusion in the World Heritage List.

According to ISNA, the Sassanid caravanserai of Dirgchin, although it is considered a “treasure” and according to the law of cultural heritage should not be handed over and changed its use, but in 2016 by the Fund for the Restoration and Exploitation of Historical and Cultural Monuments (affiliated to the then organization / Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Tourism) will be put up for auction on the grounds that “it is not in a good condition at all and cannot be prevented from being included in the fund’s auction list.” About seven months after the auction, Deir Gchin will be handed over to the Tourism and Automobile Center (another subsidiary of the then Organization / Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Tourism) to be converted into a tourist residence after restoration, a project approved by archaeologists and Even tourism activists have not been successful and most of the salt has been sprinkled on the old wounds.

Dirgchin was an abandoned place for many years, and local nomads used it to maintain their camel herds for about 200 years, and camels eroded much of the building walls in those years. Now, serious warnings have been issued about the devastating effects of the restorations, the manner of maintenance and the change of use of this caravanserai, the damage of which is not less than those years, especially since Deir Gchin is among the 56 caravanserais whose files are on the World Heritage List. Sent by UNESCO.

Shaghayegh Mohammadinejad, an archeology graduate who recently visited the Deir Gachin Caravanserai, says of its latest situation: “The Deir Gachin Caravanserai, like thousands of other similar buildings, has been abandoned. The General Directorate of Cultural Heritage, Tourism and Handicrafts of Qom Province, by handing over the caravanserai to a private institution, has led this valuable heritage to destruction. Unprincipled, unprofessional and poor quality repairs of arches and walls, conversion of cells into accommodation for travelers and construction and payment of musical instruments, keeping all kinds of animals in the yard and cells and the face of this caravanserai have changed and damaged.

Irregular restoration of the late Sassanid caravanserai

He adds: In the construction of the current gate of the building, small Islamic bricks have been used, which are believed to have been built at the same time as the reconstruction of the caravanserai roof. On the other hand, the presence of a large number of animal bones, scattered inside the cells, wooden coffins and abandoned chapters of the theaters in the southeastern part of the caravanserai, confronts the visitor with a ugly and ugly view. This part of the caravanserai is in darkness and the power cords are scattered on the floor for lighting, and I have used artificial lights for photography.

Irregular restoration of the late Sassanid caravanserai

He believes that improper repairs and strengthening of incorrect and insufficient parts, not only do not contribute to the stability of the structure, but will slowly and irreversibly cause damage over time and put this valuable and unique caravanserai in danger of destruction.

This bachelor’s archaeologist considers the condition of the caravanserai and its uses inconsistent and says: keeping animals such as horses, dogs, goats and kids, chickens, roosters and pigeons in the caravanserai and scattering their dung (excrement) will make any lover of cultural heritage only This suggests that the inn owner does not understand how to preserve historical and national monuments by turning them into a personal farm and generating revenue by accepting travelers into rooms and inconsistent and unrelated constructions without the presence of experts familiar with cultural heritage.

Mohammadinejad emphasizes the need to preserve the principles and dignity of the caravanserai and says: “Shrugging off and leaving such a valuable heritage in the hands of unskilled people will only help to destroy the relics of our ancestors as soon as possible.” It is worthwhile for everyone to help and protect this precious heritage of the country to the best of their ability and compassion.

Restoration and unprincipled change of Sassanid caravanserai

Siavos Aria, a researcher and cultural heritage activist, also criticizes the transfer of Dirgchin, whose renovations, changes of use and maintenance have further damaged the caravanserai and tarnished its image. And without an expertise in the private sector, the “Gachin Monastery” caravanserai undoubtedly suffers from this issue. On the other hand, the inconsistent and uncultural use of historical and national monuments in some times has caused the dignity and identity of these historical monuments to be damaged and damaged. It has been warned many times that national monuments, especially the precious ones, should not be abandoned. It is to non-cultural people who have no knowledge of Iranian culture and history and cultural and historical monuments and only invest in historical monuments for a small and obvious price and seek their profit. On the other hand, inconsistent and non-cultural uses will cause irreversible damage to national and historical monuments, and encroachment on them is inevitable.

Cracks can be clearly seen on the fortifications and in a serious condition

Mohammadinejad, a bachelor’s degree in archeology, explains the background and construction of the “Deir Gachin” caravanserai: The Deir Gachin caravanserai is one of the largest caravanserais in Iran, located in the center of Kavir National Park. The unique features of this caravanserai have prompted experts to call it the “mother of Iranian caravanserais.” Apart from the usual accommodations, Deir Gachin also has abnormal (unusual) features. Inside the compound, each corner is based on a different plan for a specific function. In the northwest corner (west) of the mill and in the southwest, there is a small courtyard with bath (bathroom) and kitchen. The northeast corner, like a private apartment, is built around a small courtyard and should be intended for use by royalty or high-ranking officials. Among these personalities was Shah Ismail I, a Safavid, who crossed this route from Persia (Persia) to Firuzkuh and Mazandaran during his campaign (Ghazi Ahmad, procedure 268). A mosque has been built in the southeast corner of the compound, the plan of which is square, and in the center of the shrine, there are four large Sassanid brick pillars, which are arranged in four rooms. Like other buildings, the first roof has been replaced by later Islamic arches, but it is believed that the mosque was erected on the site of the Sassanid fire temple, with a four-domed room in the center. The location of Deir Gchin Caravanserai on the ancient road from Rey to Isfahan (Isfahan) has long been the meeting point of the communication lines between East and West, and the roads of the northern, western, southern and eastern regions have hit Rey at this point. According to Yaghoubi, the roads to Rey, Espahan, Karaj and Hamedan were separated from Qom, and without the presence of Dir Gchin Caravanserai, it would not have been possible to cross the desert between Rey and Qom.

He continues: The remote location and the unusual strength and expansion of this building, accept the word “pool” that this caravanserai was used to maintain military reserves. On the other hand, the location of the caravanserai at the end of the road from Rey to Qom in the Sassanid period, paved the way for the separation of this place after the transfer of its road to its current route in Aliabad, which took place during the Qajar period. In the Sassanid period, it can be clearly seen in the lower layers of the reconstructions done in the building, during the Islamic period.

Mohammadinejad goes on to refer to the historical documents that refer to the existence of the Dirgchin caravanserai and based on it, he says: Although writers such as Yaqut attributed it to Ardeshir I and gave it the Sassanid name “Kurd-Ardashir”, others like Hassan Ibn Mohammad Qomi has recorded it as a work of Khosrow Anoshirvan. Therefore, it can be said that the longevity of this building may be related to the early Sassanid period and was restored during the time of Khosrow Anoshirvan.

He adds: In the Islamic period, the Dirgchin caravanserai has been completely renovated at least twice. The first occasion was during the reign of Sultan Sanjar of Seljuk, when his minister Abu Nasr Ahmad Kashi rebuilt the road between Rey and Qom, also rebuilt Deir Gchin, and turned the village near Kaj. Once again, it seems that in the Safavid period, most of the old arches made of large Sassanid bricks measuring 36 x 36.8 cm were dismantled and new arches with smaller bricks measuring 25 x 25.5 cm were built on the old structure. Also, a large number of Sassanid bricks remained around the site and were later reused in the surrounding buildings.

This archeology graduate says: The Cultural Heritage, Tourism and Handicrafts Organization added the time of this caravanserai to the list of national monuments of Iran on October 22, 2003 with the registration number 10408. After the national registration of the building in 2003, emergency restoration began, which continued until 2006.

Deir Gechin Caravanserai is located in the central part of Qom city, 80 km northeast of Qom city (60 km of Garmsar highway) and 35 km southwest of Varamin. This building has been called Late Gachin because of its gypsum dome, but there is no such dome in the building at the moment.

The abandoned bones of animals in the caravanserai that was supposed to be a tourist residence

Turbulence inside the building

Loose and unstable condition of the building

Deep cracks on the fortifications

Photos by Shaghayegh Mohammadinejad, a graduate of archeology